Thursday, 27 September 2012

Greece Diary, Part Three: The Best of Dionni

This is kind of a sidetrack from my vaguely linear diary to express my love for this little girl. She was but a day old when we arrived, but after two weeks she was beginning to make her own way in the world... with her mum Frini by her side of course. This girl loved galloping up and down in the blazing heat while her mum tried to keep to the shade. She was the first purely black Skyrian foal to be born on Skyros for many years, and shows the signs of keeping her colour (unlike many foals born black whose coats fade to other colours). Here you are: her greatest hits.

A couple of days old!
Drinking with Mama Frini after a day when
the water was turned off
Having a scratch
Finally venturing into the volunteer room!

Kiss!
Enjoying a meal (accidentally saved this image really small,
 but it's beautiful - taken by Ben)
Meeting Coleen's favourite cat (image courtesy of Coleen)
And finally... Dionni's proudest moment...

The time she got stuck on the wall.

Sunday, 23 September 2012

Greece Diary: Part Two - Adjusting

While we slept we were joined by an orange and white cat, whose name I later discovered to be Mary. A feral farm cat, she was there to keep the pests out - along with sixteen others.

Not such a flattering picture, but there'll be more.
When we woke Coleen gave us a quick tour of the farm. As we'd been lying there dozing I'd heard a lot of the sounds of the daily farm routine and spent a lot of time half-asleep imagining what was on the other side of the wall so actually putting things into perspective was a strange experience in my very tired state. The volunteer room is built into the stable block, so a side entrance (under a canopy of grapevines with very young grapes growing from them) led us to a row of stalls. The economic situation in Greece at the moment meant that the metal couplings used to build the stalls in the stables cost roughly £12 each, so Amanda and her partner Stathis couldn't afford to build a new permanent fence.

On the farm there are two main fields: the stallions, and the mares. In the other fields a couple of stallions live in fields with quasi-families. Effie and Victor were such an adorable couple. Stallions and mares don't often get to live together as there would be too many foals and some stallions can be a bit violent, Amanda told us, but Effie and Victor suited each other and were very easygoing. Ben immediately took a shine to Victor, who looked to him like a 'suave character' (or something to that effect).

Male bonding - Ben and Victor
A few of the mares were stabled when we arrived as they'd had a cold but they were fully recovered by the next day and we were able to take them back out into the field. A few quarantine measures, like dipping our feet in disinfectant after visiting their field, were kept in place to stop the infection from reaching the other ponies. We went into the stallions' field and did a bit of grooming to pass the time. Mostly this consisted of following the stallions around the field with a body brush and a curry comb and bonding with them as much as cleaning them. This is when I was introduced to Orfeas.

Little Orfeas
He was a scruffy little boy and the only one in the field wearing a headcollar. Coleen explained that he was not very sociable so if we got the chance we should give him a groom and try to socialise him a bit. Apparently, though Amanda had asked for him to be left out when the others were seen to, he had been caught for the first time and chipped when he was very young so he'd shied away from people ever since, expecting more pain. Amanda said that any handling I could do with him would be very helpful, so I made it my mission - when there wasn't other work to do and I could withstand the heat - to get him walking on a leadrope and accept being groomed. This would be a slow process and because we were only there for two weeks I didn't get very far - but more on that later.

After grooming we did the lunchtime muck-out and water while Amanda, Stathis and their friend Dimos did the feed. Then we sat down to lunch outside their house at a table under another canopy of vines, with cherries hanging down from a tree in the orchard. Dimos had cooked a delicious bean soup, which was a traditional Greek winter dish, with fresh-baked bread and feta cheese. There were flies everywhere and it was difficult to keep them off the food; we were told we'd eventually stop being bothered by it, which I suppose was true to an extent.

After lunch we had the afternoon off and Ben fell asleep again so I went along to the beach with Coleen. It's about a fifteen-minute walk from the farm along a dirt track which turned out to be a road. Along the way it became very overgrown and there was a lot of wire inexplicably on the ground. That area was also called 'snake country' by Amanda as the overgrown, slightly boggy ground was ideal for boas. They wouldn't do any harm, but we wouldn't want to step on one either - so we were told. This reminded me of something Dimos said when I asked him about the leggy beasts - were they poisonous? He seemed to be suggesting no, but then said 'I wouldn't push my luck'. He added that we do have snakes in England - and proceeded to sing the Black Adder theme. The last thing I expected to hear on a remote Greek island!

Our beach
We reached the beach. Our own private beach. Sorry, no - there was once a couple sunbathing, but they cleared off after a while and the beach was back to its normal occupancy. Coleen and I made plans to swim out to the island in the bay, but after climbing up the rocks and seeing a suspicious dark patch in the water between the shore and the island we never quite worked up the nerve. Especially after I'd laid eyes on my first sea urchin - I wasn't going to take my chances with those guys.

How do I describe the beach? After working all morning on the farm we would come here in the afternoons, wet with sweat, and immerse ourselves in cool, clear water. Then we'd lie on the beach until we were dry (not long), and I'd head back to the farm to take a cold shower. I can't stand lying on the beach and cooking.

Refreshing. That's the word.

Dimos cooked us a great pasta dinner after the evening muck out; he'd just improvised the recipe. I can still remember how satisfying it was, eating in the dark with the sounds of the insects and the animals after a long, amazing day. I remember being stunned by the sky because I'd never seen so many stars before, stretching out in all directions without an ounce of light pollution blocking them out.

Ben and I got an early night. It had been a very long day.

End of part two... next time: Special - Dionni.

Friday, 7 September 2012

Greece Diary, Part One - Getting There

Note about this diary: I travelled with my boyfriend Ben to the Greek island of Skyros from the 4th-19th June 2012, but I wrote this diary afterwards in one go. There are few dates and a lot is quite general; it's not a daily record! Just wanted to clarify that in advance.

Ben and I set off from Whitehaven train station at about 8am. Due to a diversion we had to change trains six times (including travelling across London) and only just got seats on one of them despite our reservations because a train with too few carriages had been sent out. We stopped in London overnight with my cousins, the Slaters, and watched the Queen's Golden Jubilee concert.

The next morning we flew from Gatwick to Athens. We were picked up at the airport by Janet, a woman originally from the North of England like us who now owns a B&B nearby which we were staying in since our flight wasn't until the following morning. We had gone for the cheapest flights possible but in future it might be worth considering whether getting a more expensive flight later, and staying in the airport, might be cheaper than staying over in Athens. Janet however treated us as if we were family friends and we felt right at home! Her beautiful house had a real orange tree (we marvelled at that for a while), feral cats wandering around and a lovely pool which Ben immediately went for a swim in. I was anxious to visit Athens while we had the chance so I managed to keep myself out of the water. The heat was intense though!

The garden of the B&B
Janet gave us a lift to the local metro station less than an hour later and bought us tickets for Athens. The tickets were valid for 90 minutes from the time they're stamped (and you stamp them yourselves with the time as you enter the station) so we had a second set of tickets to stamp on the way back. There were no seats on the train and after 20 minutes of standing we were both starting to feel quite faint. Finally we arrived in the central square where we half-heartedly searched for a Greek restaurant before settling on McDonalds. One thing we noticed right away is that there is no respect for the queue in Athens! You have to be assertive to the point of aggressive to be able to get to the till and then you need to have some knowledge of Greek. We'd done our best to learn some but it wouldn't have helped much - fortunately the lady at the till confirmed 'I speak' in a very cheery voice so we were able to order.

From there we went to the Acropolis and took a quick photo, but we were both feeling pretty wiped out by the heat so after popping into a souvenir shop to buy an evil eye necklace (to appear in later photos) we took the metro back out of Athens, called Janet and headed back.

The extent of our exploration of Athens
I found it difficult to get to sleep that night. I could hear someone swimming in the pool which was a lovely sound (that's sincerity) especially in the dark with the pool all lit up. There was a strange chorus of animal noises that I've never heard the like of; dogs barking, dozens of cats mewing, and insects. So many insects. Earlier that evening Ben and me had seen a huge wasp-like creature with two long legs hovering outside our window which we had dubbed the 'leggy beast' - it was like something out of Doctor Who. We would be seeing a lot more of these guys over the next couple of weeks.

I must have slept eventually but at 4am we were up again to meet the taxi Janet had kindly ordered for us. The moon was out, the road was empty and the strange chorus of animals was still going. I felt very edgy standing at the side of the road with all our belongings at 4.50am but the taxi found us eventually.

Ben and the moon at 4am in Greece
At Athens Airport we spent half an hour queueing to drop our baggage before being told we were in the wrong line (Frankfurt, not Skyros). We were now in a bit of a rush but there was absolutely no queue for the Skyros baggage drop. We ran to the gate but were a couple of minutes early.

Empty plane
There were four people on the plane, including us. An airbus. It was unbelievable. We were offered orange juice but turned it down before realising it was complimentary. We weren't exactly used to the Aegean Airlines service, being more used to Easyjet. We were given complimentary chocolate croissants which we fortunately didn't turn down and we moved a few rows back for an unobstructed view of the Aegean Sea. We levelled out for all of five minutes before we began our descent; about 20 minutes total. From the air, Skyros was bigger than we'd anticipated, expecting to be able to see the whole island from our windows. I doubt we'd have been able to land on it in that case. The pilot seemed to overshoot the runway so he had to do another circle before we could land. The 'airport' is actually a Greek Air Force base which also turned out to be only ten minutes from the farm; we'd see other planes coming in to land throughout our trip, some huge, and so close. The hangars were built into the hills. 

Amanda (another English expat - how at home we felt!) picked us up from the airport in her white van. I remember thinking to myself as I loaded our rucksacks into the back, 'so that's the kind of place this will be'. I mean this in a positive way. The back of the van was filled with hay, and I knew at once we were staying with real horsey people. We didn't bother with seatbelts - there was barely anyone else on the narrow roads. The landscape was arid and hilly but Amanda surprised me by saying the land wasn't usually so green at this time of year; the sun had usually burnt it all off by now. When we reached the farm we were introduced to a newborn foal, Dionni (soon to take a place in our hearts), and then escorted straight to our room so that we could get some sleep. I was so grateful for that; we were both exhausted. We met our fellow volunteer, Coleen, briefly before collapsing onto the bed to sleep alongside a couple of farm cats.

End of part one!

Related links:
St Thomas B&B (where we stayed in Athens)
The Unsettled Texan (Coleen's blog)

Thursday, 6 September 2012

Quick intro

Right now I'm going to start putting up pictures of my experiment with the "no 'poo do" (yeah... get excited) but over the next few weeks I'll also be posting my diary from my trip to the Greek island of Skyros in June this year. After that there may be radio silence for a while because unfortunately I have another year at uni before I'll be travelling again. So that's what you can expect for the time being.