My Second Skyrian Summer - Photo Journal

I decided to articulate this post mainly through photographs, because this wasn't a day trip to Prague but an entire month of my life, and I think in this case fewer words and more pictures will say it better.

At the end of May last year, pretty much as soon as my exams were done, I took a plane to Athens to meet my best buddy Karen.

The two of us stayed the night in a hostel, had a good old fashioned Greek kebab, took a look around the Acropolis and then hopped on a bus to Kymi, and a ferry to Skyros.

You may remember that I had visited Skyros Island Horse Trust the previous year for a couple of weeks. Now I was returning for a month, and bringing horse-crazy Karen with me.

We bought the most delicious, succulent cherries I have ever eaten at the port, and ate them on the journey as the sun set over the Aegean. 

This time there were new characters at the farm: Hara (above), a rescued dog, and Heidi (below) - a goat.

Some animals had been lost, too. Roughly sixteen cats come to the farm to be fed by morning and night, but they weren't exactly the same cats I had met the year before. Leon, the friendly dog, had also died. Hara looks very similar to him and was found abandoned on a beach; it's possible she is his pup.

We settled into the routine quickly enough. Mucking out, feeding, watering, three times a day (for almost 40 horses - no mean feat), and various other jobs as and when, including building a fence, clearing out the stables, and moving horses from field to field.

Taking Ifestos and Nefeli out for a bite of grass among the neighbour's grapevines became one of the highlights of our day.

As were our evening training sessions and lessons in horsemanship with Amanda.

It wasn't horses 24-7, however (well, not quite). One day we collected as many plums as we could from the orchard, boiled them up and made an exquisite crumble for dessert. In my day to day life, crumble is an unremarkable thing. In Skyros, where I can't afford to be picky with my food and snack all day and every meal is the best and most satisfying thing I've ever eaten, that crumble was heaven.

Our days and evenings off in the village were some of the best. Above is a rally against the construction of a huge wind farm on the island (see my article) for which the village turned out in full force. Karen and I ate chicken souvlaki that evening (and never looked back).

Over the month I made real progress with Orfeas, the pony I have adopted. On the final evening I led him out of the paddock where he has lived since he was weaned (again, no mean feat, and with the help of Stathis!) and walked him around in the field. I hardly recognised the pony who used to flinch from being touched when I met him in 2012.

My favourite night on the farm does require some words to articulate, because it was dark. I snapped this photo of the full moon coming up. That night, plans for a dinner on the rooftop terrace went awry, and we were all feeling fairly grumpy. But Julietta made us each a plate for dinner: olives, bread with rosemary oil, tomatoes, cheese. It was the most wonderful, simple meal I've eaten. The four of us - Karen, Amanda, Julietta, and me - talked and drank wine (except for Julietta, of course), and Amanda began telling us how amazing it is to be with horses in the dark when everything is so still and quiet. So we went out into the fields and sat down with the horses and even lay down beside some as they dozed. They came over and snuffed at us, pawed at us, eventually just chilled out with us as though we were part of the herd. It was the most extraordinary evening.

A few days before we left, a ferry tour group came to visit the farm. Karen and I put the skills we had learned to use, along with Julietta, and demonstrated natural horsemanship for the audience. It was the culmination of everything we'd learned, and a fitting end to our time at the farm. That night, I lay out in the stallions' field under the stars until about 2 o'clock while the horses chewed above me and dropped hay on my head, and knew that I would be coming back to Skyros for the rest of my life. 

I would like to dedicate this post to Dimos Kypraios, a true friend and a wonderful man, who died later that summer saving Julietta's life.

For more information about Skyros Island Horse Trust, visit www.skyrosislandhorsetrust.com.

The Travels of my Summer Journal

Early in 2013 I bought a blank unlined notebook from Paperchase for a fiver with the intention of using it for a creative writing project. After realising I wasn't creative enough to pull it off, I decided to dedicate the notebook to my summer travels, and wrote the title - Summer 2013, as you see above - on the blank cover.

In June the notebook travelled with me to Skyros, where I doodled horses all over the cover, practised a bit of Greek writing, and drew a couple of cats too. Oh, and Hara the dog, as you see just below the title. One evening my great friend, 10-year-old Julietta, asked me what my favourite number was (12)  and my favourite animal (do you even have to ask?) and drew this lovely design for me.

When the journal and I visited Romania, it became my lesson-planning brain-exploding outlet for confusion and frustration with the fact that I wasn't enjoying teaching. But there were good days too. As you see.

And above all, I used it to record day-to-day happenings, at first only items of particular interest (see below - ate my first chicken kebab), but with some increasing detail as time went on.

The journal ends abruptly on the 10th of August - the day I left it on the train. We got on at Lyon, and when I stepped off at Grenoble my journal was lying hopefully under the seat I'd been sitting in.

I despaired.

I called all the lost property offices along the train line, and after a few days I was prepared to give up hope. I wasn't getting anywhere. Then I received this email, entitled 'travel book forgotten in the train'.

¡ Hi !
Last sunday with my wife we took the train Bordeaux-Vintimille in the station of Marseille, and we found a notebook forgotten on a seat. Inside there is your mail adress. Is it yours ? If it is, we can send you by the post. 
Friendly,
[anonymized, of course].

The most amazing thing about my saviours is that my email address was only on the page where I'd written down my bank details. To be safe, I changed them all at once, but they had had my notebook for a few days I believe before they found the means to contact me, and all they did was let me know they had it.

Restores your faith in humanity, doesn't it?

So they posted it to the airbnb flat we would be renting the following week in Como.

Unfortunately, it arrived the day we left for France.

Fortunately, our kind Italian landlord made regular trips to the UK, and the next time he came over, he brought my package and posted it locally. When the notebook made it to Cumbria, I'd returned to Scotland for university. At last, when I returned home for Christmas, I was reunited with my journal, which officially travelled more extensively than I did in summer 2013.

2013 in Review and Plans for 2014

2013 was really my first adventurous year. In summary:

• In January I hitchhiked from Stirling to Prague - by car, lorry, ferry, foot and finally train. 
• During the spring semester I spent two weekends hiking around the Scottish Highlands and Trossachs
• In June I volunteered in Skyros again, via Athens
• In July I flew to Romania (via Italy..!) and taught for a month in the east
• From the end of July I visited (with an Interrail Pass) Cluj-Napoca, Budapest, Vienna, Prague, Berlin, Amsterdam, Brussels, Bordeaux, Lyon and Grenoble
• At the end of August I lived in an airbnb flat in Como for a week before spending a week (respectively) with one family in Sardinia (brief stop in Milan) and another in Chef-Boutonne.
• After working hard during the Christmas semester (earning, not studying, of course) I flew to Australia via Beijing, and spent Christmas in Melbourne and New Year at Point Lonsdale. 

And the highlights include but are not limited to:

• Finally fulfilling a childhood dream - visiting the Spanish Riding School in Vienna
• Learning to drive a horse-drawn cart in Romania
• Lying out in the field with the horses under a full moon in Skyros
• Enjoying the music of Grail in the Old Town Square, Prague
• Reaching the summit of 'Le Dent' in the Alps
• And finishing off the year by swimming with seals and dolphins in Australia.

Grail in full swing

There were low points too...

• Stubbing my toe so many times while wearing sandals that the nail turned black
• Cooking overnight in a Budapest bedroom without air conditioning
• And worst of all, learning of the death of a close friend.

The bad experiences, however, couldn't outweigh the value that travelling has held for me over the past year. And that's why I'm planning for another big adventure in 2014.

Plan #0.5: Improve this blog
As you can already see, I've given the blog a bit of a makeover, and in 2014 I hope to improve my travel writing skills and develop the blog further.

Plan #1: Driving tour of Scotland

In the second part of the university's spring vacation, Lachy and I are planning an epic voyage by car around the Highlands and Islands. Definite stops will include Inversnaid, Tomintoul and the Isle of Skye.

Plan #2: Purchase ticket to Iceland (complete)

On August 19th I will be flying from Edinburgh over to Reykjavik to spend a few days in and around the capital before heading to the far north to volunteer on a dairy farm with many horses, where I'll also be lucky enough to be taking part in the biggest Icelandic horse roundup in the country. If I can get a few days off, I wouldn't mind attending Iceland Airwaves, either; a big music festival in Reykjavik.

Plan #3: Return to Skyros (part two)

Sometime in October I will head back to my favourite Greek island to spend six weeks or so working with the world's greatest breed of tiny pony. And for the first time, I'll be working in weather my body can understand, and I might actually be quite productive!

Plan #4: Christmas in Cumbria and Hogmanay

Since the last Christmas season was spent with another family in another hemisphere, I promised my parents (well, my mum) that this year I'd be at home. And I am determined to attend Hogmanay for my birthday this year, something I've always wanted to do but - despite living so close to Edinburgh for so long - I've never done it yet.

Plan #5: (technically, this one is for 2015) Move to Australia

That's right. Lachy is transferring and I'm moving to Melbourne with him. Much adventure awaits. Much excitement, much excitement indeed. 

Hello Melbourne.

Losing Track of Time

This is a short post because I'm out of practice and because it's a short post.

Before I went abroad in the summer of 2013 I decided to stop wearing a watch.

I can be obsessive over punctuality and the time I spend on certain things and basically I was counting the minutes every day of my life. So when I set off for Greece I took off my watch and put it in my pink toiletries bag, just in case. I wasn't ready to leave it behind altogether. And it was a lovely 18th birthday present from my parents.

I didn't lose track of time altogether. I still have my phone and when I really need to know what time it is, I pull it out of my pocket and check, and I'm still rarely late. But now that the option to glance at my wrist to see the time isn't there any more, it's rare that I wonder how many minutes have passed. And I think that's a symptom of the fact that since I started travelling, I've been living a better life. A much more interesting, filled, and stimulating life.

Of course, I don't mean to say that we should all stop wearing watches. I mean only that those of us who, like me, used their watch as a measuring device to be checked regularly, as something that reminded them that they were wasting time and that made them always too cautious - those people should consider taking their watches off.

I took my watch out of the toiletries bag a few weeks ago and realised that it had stopped. A year ago, I would have panicked and had the battery replaced immediately. I couldn't help but smile when I saw it.

My Romanian family. Note the watch-free wrist

*

I know many posts about the summer of travelling are owed, and now a few about the Australian summer as well, and they'll come in due time.

Teaching is Not My Calling and Other Lessons Learned in Romania

This summer I spent a month in the town of Suceava, Romania, otherwise known as Whitehaven, Romania. The reason I call it that is that, like my home town of Whitehaven, there is very little to do there. Yes, there are museums and shops and so on, but it took about two weeks to have visited every place of interest in the town, and unfortunately, we (myself and the other teachers from Scotland) were there for four.

Since I spent such a long time there, this won't be a day-by-day record of my activities. Instead, I'm going to organise it thematically, by lessons learned.

All right, this was a good day

Teaching is not my calling
This, I'd say, is the most important lesson I learned during July. As an English student I have often felt that I don't have many career options and one of the questions I get asked most is whether I plan to be a teacher. Well, I thought, I may as well see. So I signed up for ScRoLL (Scottish-Romanian Language Link) to see what it was like. Please note: I really have no problem with the programme, only with teaching. For the first two weeks I was teaching twenty-two 12-16 year olds in a classroom big enough for twelve. I struggled to keep up with my students, who were very good English speakers and difficult to palm off with colouring-in. In the second week, however, I realised they were so good we could easily take up two to three hours with discussion of who was the best superhero and whether the Harry Potter films were as good as the books. I got to know my students really well and we even hung out outside of class.

The second two weeks I taught 8-10 year olds. At first there were about twelve but when my friend Beth's class was reduced in the second week we combined our efforts and taught our classes together. This took a lot of the pressure off and meant we could divide the class into awesome Hogwarts houses and play games and have competitions with them. It was a lot of fun. They were very sweet, but they didn't speak much English, and some of them obviously didn't understand a word I said, and that was hard. Unfortunately, I don't have the patience for teaching, and since I used to be very shy and not enjoy standing up to give presentations, I found it quite hard to be the centre of attention for four hours a day. Lesson learned: teaching is not my calling.

I don't like meat
Over the year preceding my summer adventure I made a valiant effort to eat meat, despite having been a vegetarian for more than ten years beforehand. I thought it might not be easy not to eat meat when I was travelling, and to an extent I was right. Some parts were easy; I always loved saveloy and pork pies. Other parts were not; there was no way I could stomach a steak. I ate meat with greater frequency while I was abroad, getting stomach aches afterwards, and in Romania, after being sick for two days after eating some chicken, I gave it up for good (well, almost). I don't like eating it. The end.

I love beer
I knew this already, but the extent of it wasn't really clear until this summer. I spent my first two weeks in Romania with a family that didn't drink, and when I once had a beer in a pub with my fellow teachers, I received some pretty shocked looks from my host. Then, when I moved to a different family in my third week, we spent the first day at the extended family's shared cabin by the woods, and I was given beer after beer from one o'clock in the afternoon until I fell asleep in a caravan at five. Nothing like making up for lost time.

Family camping trip

Gypsies are not Romanian
I'm kidding. This was quite the contentious issue.

We drove past a guy driving a cart. 'There! There's a gypsy!' says my host. 'How can you tell?' I ask. 'Look at his face!' is the response I get.
We drive past another cart. 'Is that a gypsy?' I ask, pointing to a similar-looking man. My host laughs in scorn. 'No!'

Family member: 'The worst thing is, it says Romanian on their passports, so people think they are Romanian!'
Me: 'If it says Romanian in their passports, surely they are Romanian?'
Family member: 'No.'

There is a huge divide in Romania. My hosts drove me through a 'gypsy village' (part of their own village) and said 'The gypsies live like kings!' Their houses were no less ramshackle then the others. Which leads me to my next lesson.

Romania is like The Sims
It is traditional in Romania to buy land and build your own house. As a result, the landscape is dotted with huge houses in every colour. I really like the idea. In some cases I have to say it might have been wiser to employ a contractor. Others were architectural masterpieces. Many houses in the village were built around courtyards with a barn and a well which I thought was lovely.

Street in my village

Agricultural technology has not yet reached Romania
One thing that really struck me was the prevalence of carts and the near-absence of tractors. On two occasions I got to drive a neighbour's cart and loved it. We would pass several carts on the way to school, speeding by in our cars. Scythes are used to cut hay and the hay is baled up in the fields, piled onto huge sticks and wooden racks; no baling machines to be found. Agriculture seems to be one of Romania's largest industries, so its methods obviously still work - it just struck me, coming from a rural area where I've never seen a cart on the road but have been stuck behind tractors many a time.

In the driver's seat

I romanticise
The final lesson. Before I headed out to Romania, I read William Blacker's book about his time in Romania, Along the Enchanted Way. It was a wonderful book about falling in love with a gypsy and an agricultural way of life. Suceava, however, was a large town, not a tiny village with no tarmac roads (although I spent two weeks in one) and Romania is a twenty-first century country, not a historical wonderland. It is beautiful and I enjoyed my time there but it is not my country the way it is for William Blacker.

But I'm looking forward to find it.

Still pretty damn beautiful.

What this summer made me realise about my life

This summer, I was too busy with trivial thoughts like 'how am I going to afford breakfast' and 'now I'm in Berlin, where actually is my hostel' to have any startling revelations. Actually, this revelation wasn't really startling at all, even when it did show its face. It just gradually built up until it was glaringly obvious.

In my daily life I spend a lot of time at a desk. I sit at a desk to write my essays. I sit at a desk to translate Old English. If a book is particularly painful, sometimes I have to sit at a desk to read it so I don't fall asleep in my bed. I'm a hotel receptionist, and when I get to work, I sit at a desk. For an eight-hour stretch.

Sitting on a mountain. Preferable to sitting at a desk

Over June, July, August and a bit of September, I must have spent about eight cumulative hours sitting at a desk. I'm not saying I didn't sit. I sat at restaurants and on sofas and on the bed while I read a book (for pleasure, not for my degree!) but I barely even saw a desk the whole summer.

I never had sore shoulders or a sore neck, I barely had a single headache (apart from one strange week of tension headaches, but that may be because I'm not really used to sunlight...). I was tanned, and I felt strong for the first time in years.

Sitting on a horse. Preferable to sitting at a desk

Now I'm back in St Andrews, a town that I love, in a house that I love, with people that I love. That's all great. And the desk. The desk is back. I've already had to go to a physiotherapist about the ache in my shoulders and the pain of trying to maintain good posture and keep from hunching over my books is almost as bad.

Like all other fourth years I am continually battling The Fear about graduating in a year, but at the same time, it can't come quickly enough. I don't want to sit at a desk any more. 

As an English graduate I used to think I wouldn't have many job options, but then I started to get the message that English equips you to persuade just about anybody that you're the man for the job. One thing is kind of a given, though: you're going to have to work at a desk. But I'm not going to.

If you thought this might mean I know what I'm doing with my life - no. Of course not. I'm a fourth year English student. I know I like to write, and I don't mind spending an hour or two at a desk. I think what I want is to work with horses in some capacity.

For an English student, and a university student in general, this feels like a lot to admit. It's difficult to realise after three years that you're not doing what you want to be doing. But I am in the place I want to be. So that's enough for now. :)

This got way deeper than I anticipated! Next blog post will be about silly things that happened in Romania. Over and out.

What's In My Pack? (after three months)

Since my pack has been through a lot this summer, I felt it deserved some recognition.
The original list is in regular type - strikethrough has been ditched along the way - bold is a new addition.

Clothes
6 x pants
4 x ankle socks
3 x regular socks x1 (holes/missing)
2 x bras
4 x vests
1 x t-shirt
1 x trousers
2 x shorts (1 pair ripped and mended)
1 x dress
1 x blouse
1 x skirt x 2
1 x belt
Waterproof jacket
Jumper
Scarf
Flip flops
Sandals
Trainers
Hiking boots (time came to admit they just didn't fit)

Teaching supplies
Folder
Scotland flag
Toy Collie (somehow couldn't bring myself to part with it...)
Stickers
Colouring pencils
Crayons
Scottish tablet
St Andrews pencils
Scottish playing cards
Fudge
Scottish recipe tea towels (gifts for host families)
Post-its

Misc
Snorkel
Laundry liquid
Micro towel
Olive oil (gift for family)
Ouzo (gift for family)
Romania magnets x 5
Romania playing cards
Romania calendar
Romania bookmarks
Traditional Romanian Easter eggs x 6
Handmade halter (all of the above were gifts to me)
Castile soap
Beer mug shot glass (gift for family)
Colossal wooden spoon (gift for family)
Straw hat
Toiletries (various)
Wooden religious icon
30 year old handmade Romanian tablecloth (both gifts to me)
First aid kit (minus a few plasters)
2 x sun tan lotion x 1
Insect bite cream
Camera (slightly broken)
Chargers for phone/tablet
Tablet
Kindle (with 100+ books... man it was handy)

Carrying the wooden spoon for a month around Europe has to have been the biggest packing challenge as it stretched from the bottom of my pack to just stick out the top. I had a very minimal wardrobe but nothing was forgotten in the bottom of my bag and I had just enough to get through.

A Change of Plans

(Anyone who noticed that this blog was retired for about a month, forget everything you saw.)

I've now been abroad for just under three months - well, I left on the 30th of May and it's now the 20th of August. The plan to walk the West Highland Way this summer went out the window when I had to spend 50 euros on a taxi across Rome at the last minute (fuck you very much, WizzAir) and overspent in Greece and basically realised I couldn't really afford to fly home, and it made more sense to wait it out on the continent until my family showed up to drive me safely back to England.

Yeah, that's a pretty stupid plan, I know. I am now out of money. However, the next couple of weeks will be spent with various family members - the last couple of weeks, actually - and then I will have made it. Sort of. Back into my student debt and whatnot.

So far, I've spent a month working on my beloved farm in Greece, a month teaching children and living with families in Romania, and three weeks city-hopping with interrail which brings us to now - chilling out for a week in an airbnb flat beside Lake Como until we meet with parents. After bouncing from Suceava to Cluj-Napoca to Vienna to Prague to Berlin to Amsterdam to Brussels to Bordeaux to Lyon and finally to a friend's near Grenoble, this is a very welcome break. It's nice to be able to cook for ourselves at last, too - who knew you could get tired of eating in restaurants...

It has been a very eventful summer - I learned to drive a horse-drawn cart and a motorbike, stood in the way of a herd of galloping ponies, ate more meat than I have for ten years, got sick, swam in Lake Geneva while waiting for a train... there are more stories, and they'll get their time eventually.

When I get the time I'll be writing more about my Romanian experience (really the most apt word), my second summer in Greece and the adventures that followed. Until then.

The Great Adventure 2013

What you see here is the map which has been growing beside my bed for the past year. There are maps of the places I've been, postcards I've received and collected, a photograph, a play programme and a Lord of the Rings themed map of St Andrews. There are also maps of places I've yet to visit... or one, at least. 

For the past year I've been planning the most epic summer of my life so far. For three months I'm going to be travelling Europe, sometimes alone, sometimes with others. Here's the breakdown:

• 30th May - 27th June: Greece. I'm going back to the stables to work with Amanda, Stathis and the Skyrians for another month, this time with my friend Karen :)
• 27th June - 27th July: Romania. I'll be teaching English to kids in Suceava, and living with families there.
• 27th July - 17th August: Interrail. Lachy and I are heading to Scandinavia via Berlin. That's the current plan, anyway!
• After the 17th August... at some point: The West Highland Way. Walking it with Lachy.
• 3rd September: a week in France with my family.

Then back in time for freshers' week! Well... hopefully.

I've never travelled for so long before - and certainly never so long on my own in between places. It's going to be a test as well as an epic adventure. Maybe I can finally get over my fear of spiders? 

Packing has so far already been a challenge. Trying to hold myself back from packing clothes for every eventuality is rather difficult, and I have three notebooks packed already - despite paring them down to the essentials. I also have to take my dissertation reading with me - that'll be fun! My hand luggage is so far composed of books and important documents, while my main bag is full of clothes and teaching materials.

I'll do my best to post updates of my adventures when I get the chance, but since I haven't got room to carry my heavy computer the majority will have to wait until September.

Hasta luego, friends! Wish me luck!